【 やっぱり一般にコルトン＝シャルルマーニュというと．．マルトレーなんでしょうね。】
コルトン＝シャルルマーニュと言えば、シャルルマーニュ大帝の畑を今に引き継ぐと言われるマルトレーを抜きにして話は進まないでしょう。ルイ・ジャドやフェヴレイ、はたまたはコシュ＝デュリ、トロ＝ボー、ちょっと場所は悪いもののルーミエなど大物揃いの中でも、どーんと真ん中に構えているのがこのドメーヌです。
当然ながらワインが悪いはずなど無く、コルトン＝シャルルマーニュを造る他のドメーヌを表現する際の基準とさえなっています。noisy
も97年は飲んでいませんが、98年はリリース時に戴きました。ミネラルの柔らかい襞に包まれた「くしゃ」とした凝縮感に、深い感動を覚えました。
1997年は、一般には果実味が弱いような印象を受けられると思いますが、そんなことは無く、むしろしっかりした凝縮感を持つ年だと理解しています。「97年のブルゴーニュ・シャルドネは買い！」だと思います。
価格の方は若干以前よりも上がっていますが、海外市況を見る限り、今回のオファーはとても安いでしょう。お薦めできるグランクリュです。
1997 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
Domaine Bonneau du Martray
Corton Charlemagne, Aloxe Corton, Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, France
Chardonnay (a dry white table wine)
The 1997 Corton-Charlemagne reveals ripe aromas of creamed hazelnuts intertwined
with fresh herbs. It is extremely well-balanced, medium-to-full-bodied, and has
a focused personality. This 1997 does not have the density, opulence, or
sur-maturite that characterizes most of the Cote de Beaune whites from the
vintage. It is tangy, precise, refined, and offers mouth-coating berry, orange
rind, and mineral flavors that linger in its long finish. Anticipated maturity:
2001-2008.
Reviewer Robert Paerker
Rating (89-92) Points
Maturity Drink 2001-2008
Cost
Wine Advocate #123 (Jun 1999) より抜粋
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The 1997 Corton-Charlemagne offers dense aromas of anise, spices, and nuts. On
the palate it offers poached pears, tangy berries, minerals, and hazelnuts. This
is a deep, extremely well-balanced wine that is presently slightly compressed in
the finish. With cellaring, it should flesh out. Anticipated maturity:
2002-2009.
Reviewer Pierre Rovani
Rating 89 Points
Maturity Drink 2002-2009
Cost $100
Wine Advocate #128 (Apr 2000) より抜粋
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1998 Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
Domaine Bonneau du Martray
Corton Charlemagne, Aloxe Corton, Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, France
Chardonnay (a dry white table wine)
Unlike his colleagues in Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, de la Moriniere did
not have any frost or hail damage (and only traces of oidium) in 1998. However,
the famed Corton hill, on which is located Corton-Charlemagne, was not spared
nature's wrath. The searing sun and heat of August burnt a significant
percentage of the grapes, so de la Moriniere was compelled "to sort like
crazy".
While he wishes he could have harvested earlier, my impression
is that his 1998 Corton-Charlemagne benefitted from the extra hang time by
gaining richness, breadth, opulence, and riper acidities. Its delightful
tropical fruit (pineapple and passion fruit) and spiced apple aromas lead to its
velvety-textured, medium-bodied personality.
Reviewer Pierre Rovani
Rating 91 Points
Maturity Drink 2002-2010
Cost $100
Wine Advocate #128 (Apr 2000) より抜粋 |
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